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Kevan’s Kenya Journey: Amboseli and the Masai Mara

Kenya is a land of contrasts and unique characteristics from the highland plateaus to rugged mountain chains. African Travel's Director of Sales, Kevan Cowie, recently visited Amboseli and the Maasai Mara sharing his experiences with wellness protocols and favorite experiences including where to get the best views of Africa's "Crown Jewel", Mount Kilimanjaro, and seeing wildlife without the crowds in the Maasai Mara.

 

Unspoiled Nature at Elewana Tortilis Camp

While exploring Amboseli, I stayed at Tortilis Camp by Elewana, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen located just outside of the park in unspoiled woodland. This is a haven in Kenya where “tuskers roam” (elephants whose tusks reach to the ground). The camp sits in the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro, and on site there is a water hole where many animals come to graze.

 

Upon arrival to Tortilis, every staff member wore masks, hand sanitizer was readily available, and my luggage was sanitized. The camp also has sink areas with water, soap and towels. The camps and lodges in Kenya are incredibly strict on protocols, so you feel very much at ease staying here. The thatch covered tents at Tortilis are large and spacious, and feature king or twin beds, elegant en-suite bathrooms and private verandas that each have remarkable views of the mountain.

 

Morning Game Drives 

The mornings are truly special at Amboseli, watching the gorgeous sunrise over Mount Kilimanjaro. I ate a hearty and delicious breakfast of omelets, muffins, bacon, sausage and (of course) aromatic Kenyan coffee before heading out on the open safari vehicle with a cozy blanket.

 

HEALTH AND SAFETY PROTOCOLS ON GAME DRIVES: Game drives with Elewana are in open safari jeeps, which makes for much better game viewing. There is hand sanitizer on board and the guides wear masks and constantly remind you to sanitize along the way.

The Tortilis guides are based in camp and know their backyard intimately. More than half of the guides are Maasai, and together, have combined guiding experience of 80 years. Speaking with one of the camp rangers, he said that Amboseli has over 2000 elephants in 56 families that move in and out of the private conservancy. What is special about lodging at a private conservancy is that only vehicles from Tortilis can roam the bush, which makes for a more private and exclusive game viewing experience with no crowds. The Kenyan Wildlife Service has been very successful with stopping poachers in its tracks at Amboseli, and they are proud to say that poaching does not exist here.

 

As we went along our drive, we spotted majestic elephants with their enormous tusks feeding and drinking on the beautiful green plains, and a big herd of Masai giraffe. Later during our drive through the plains, we ran into two zebras getting into a quarrel and other unforgettable sightings of lions, leopards (extrimely rare), and gazelles. 

INTERESTING FACT: Amboseli National Park was named by the Maasai community in the south, translating to the dry lake in the west where they live.

 

Exploring the Maasai Mara

My journey in Kenya continues to one of the most remote parts of Africa, the Maasai Mara. Elewana’s Sand River Masai Mara was my home for the nights, located on the banks of the Sand River within the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

 

 

The Sand River is on the very southern-most part of Kenya and is another great opportunity to see Africa without the crowds. It’s a place where over a million wildebeest and zebra make their migration crossing every year, and you can experience the magnificent expanse of Africa’s plains. This is true, raw Africa where the predator cats reign supreme amongst herds of hundreds, thousands of antelope and zebra.

INTERSTING FACT: The Maasai Mara is an ideal destination for exceptional game viewing at any time of the year.

 

Remote Camps with Old-World Luxury

The camp has only 16 tents that replicates the heyday of exclusive tented camps of the late 1920’s. Decorated in an old-world colonial style, with bathrooms that have their own bathtub, a double vanity – and I can’t forget the private outdoor showers! The luxurious tents overlook Sand River with dramatic rocks and riverine forest and is literally just across the river from Tanzania. The camp is divided into two separate but adjoining campsites, with each area possessing its own designated dining and public areas creating an increased sense of exclusivity and privacy. 

 

 

Breakfast in the Bush Watching the Wildlife

During one of our morning game drives, we stopped by a single tree with magnificent views over the savannah for a delicious breakfast in the bush. After we delighted in  (inclusive of muffins, pancakes with Nutella, eggs, omelets, fresh fruit and bacon) and got into our open vehicles to continue our journey, we witnessed a group of cheetahs walk to the exact tree where we just had breakfast, marked their territory and then plopped themselves in the shade to rest - an incredible sight to see! This interaction truly reminded us that you are never alone in the bush.

 

 

Many people from the Maasai tribe work in the lodge and are rangers – they spot wildlife like no one else can! Along the way we sighted elephants, many types of antelope, ostrich, and even some rare animals, such as the rare serval cat. While in the Maasai you can enjoy other exciting safari activities such as greeting the sunrise with an optional hot air balloon ride or visiting a traditional Maasai homestead and learn more about their cattle-based culture.

 

Relaxing Sundowner with the Masai Tribe

To end my day on a magical and relaxing note, I enjoyed a traditional sundowner with my Maasai guides. We stopped under a single acacia tree (a common feature in the Mara) on the savannah and as I sipped on my sundowner favorite - a gin and tonic - enjoying the backdrop of the beautiful plains and mountains to ourselves as the African sun sets with a fire pit, full bar and bartender is what makes this moment in nature extra special. 

 

 

If you wish to follow in Kevan's footsteps and enjoy a similar journey, our Worl'd Greatest Show and Safari safari captures the best of Kenya.  Discover the beauty of Amboseli with its famous large tusked elephants and views of snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro and experience the thrill of tracking Africa's Big Five and watching millions of wildebeest and zebras during their annual migration crossing the Mara River.

 

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